Mask and Varnish Gun
UPDATED
Jan 2006
There are watercolor societies and
experts that disagree with this process. Galleries need to
be educated about this process or they will not know how
to sell it. There are many products on the market that are
now allowing watercolor to be framed on Canvas and special
boards that can also be varnished. So you must make your own decisions
regarding how you want your watercolors presented. If you would like to read a
letter from a conservation expert that the watercolor would be
considered an acrylic impregnated image after this process.
click here.
*
NEW Watercolor Canvas with it's sealer is more acceptable
to the
buying
public and galleries. But also more challenging to
work on.
Any
of these processes you have to educate your buyer. See
information on the Where
have all the watercolors gone?
HERE
IS the varnishing PROCESS: BUT I HIGHLY RECOMMEND YOU DO YOUR OWN RESEARCH, AND MAKE YOUR
OWN DECISIONS.
FIRST
I
have watercolor paper dry mounted to a stiff backing board. This is so the
painting can sit in a frame like an oil painting (no glass or mats are
needed).
This
is my dry mounting information.
I
highly recommend dry mounting the paper, before you do your painting.
(A
art gallery can do the mounting for you.. I have my own dry mount press
now).
I use Fusion 4000 to dry mount
Arches 140 lb or 300 lb watercolor paper to my stiff backboard,
which is a sheet of: 1/4"
Hard Board (masonite) but this must
be gessoed on all sides before mounting the watercolor paper to it's surface.
The
Fusion 4000 dry mount adhesive
is an inert
permanent bond (don't use any other kind), other brands won't
hold during the varnishing process.
IF you
paint on watercolor board you don't have to do
the dry mounting.
For
the dry mounting make sure the adhesive process happens,
with hardboard backing it can take up to 15 min. at 180 degrees with pressure in the dry mount machine.
NOTE: Using Fusion 4000, if a bubble between paper and backing happens. You can have it pressed again in the dry mount press, even after you varnished the original, and it will reattach,
other kinds won't do this, and the varnish is not harmed
NOW
THE VARNISHING INFORMATION
Photograph all artwork before varnishing (or it will show a sheen) unless you're a professional photographer.
EQUIPMENT
YOU WILL NEED:
Varnish
gun: I use a
Paasche
L Sprayer w/ cup (photo above)
Paasche
www.paascheairbrush.com
Air Hose hooked to Varnish gun and compressor
Set the Compressor at 50 PSI to spray the varnish on (I use my husbands
garage compressor with a long air hose to the studio).
Always
wear a chemical spray mask while varnishing and
have a window with exhaust fan
going if you do it in your studio like I do.
YOU DON'T WANT TO BREATH ACRYLIC DUST!!!!
SPRAY
2 Coats: Goldens "Transparent Acrylic Extender"
( This is the acrylic Sealer, that keeps the varnish from touching the original,
and allows the varnish to be removed later on if needed) www.goldenpaints.com
Spray two coats of this to seal
the watercolor. Keep varnish gun about 6-8" above original. If small acrylic hairs are on
original after this first coat is dry, lightly sand with very fine sand
paper. Remove residue from sanding with a soft cloth, before next spraying. Let
each coat Dry. (the hairs happen because of the hairs on the fabric of the
paper)
VARNISHING
Golden's UV Polymer Varnish
(this is a water based varnish) it is
mixed
50/50 with the Acrylic extender so that I may spray it on.
I spray 6-8 coats of the final varnish. Letting each coat dry.
YOU
may also brush
the varnish on but I found it
looked to thick,
and spraying gave me even coverage. Varnish should feel
smooth to the
touch, if not lightly sand.
(it comes in Gloss, Satin, or
matte)
UV
in this varnish keeps it from yellowing, and protects the watercolor.
Spray can varnishes
don't promise this + you have many more chemicals involved in a spray
can.
Conservation
EXPERTS
don't recommend any type of mineral-spirits based varnish
on paper images, so check the contents if you use another
brand....especially spray cans.
WARNING:
Don't rush the coats of varnish, get the
mounted paper to damp and
it can bubble or warp. Let each coat dry for at least an
1/2 hour. It depends
on the humidity, feel the paper if cold or cool continue to dry.
For people who scrub out areas and damage the paper especially
in dark areas of the painting. This can really show up when you varnish...so watch out.
I let the varnish dry overnight to CURE, before I place
the painting in the frame.
Long Term?
According to the chemist at
Golden Artist Colors, the acrylic sealer protects the watercolor painting from the varnish and will let Museum curators remove the top layers of
UV varnish after we're all dead and gone. But the acrylic sealer will never be able to be removed
since it is bonded to the paper surface, so if you want to be
accurate you will have a mixed media original according to the
experts.
Cleaning
of originals.
Dust with a lint free cloth/wipe with damp clean
cloth.
Are there unseen problems?
So far NONE! My originals
shipped state
to
state with no problems. But the watercolor market
has changed and anything on paper is having a very
hard time selling in the galleries, which is why I have
moved
into
oils.
Watercolor
market and art tips
